19
YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION OF 1870
spring, having numerous spouts far out in the water.
At the mouth of the creek are large swampy districts, flooded, and the
resort of myriads of water-fowl. The sand of the beach forms a ridge on
the shore, cast up by the waters, like those seen on Lake Michigan near
Chicago. Farther down the south shore spurs of the range come down into
the basin with bluff fronts. On the south side these promontories project
far into the lake in great numbers, dividing it into bays and channels.
On the west side is a low bluff of the timbered ridges, with a sand beach
in front along the margins of the waters. The greatest width of open water
in any direction is about eighteen miles. Several islands are seen, one
of which is opposite the channel of the river and five miles from the east
shore; another is ten miles farther south, and two miles from the shore
a mountain isle with a bold bluff all around to the water's edge. These
islands doubtless have never been trodden by human footsteps, and still
belong to the regions of the unexplored. We built a raft for the purpose
of attempting to visit them, but the strong waves of the lake dashed it
to pieces in an hour. Numerous steam jets pour out from the bluffs on the
shore at different points. The waters of the lake reflect a deep blue color,
are clear as crystal, and doubtless of great depth near the center. The
extreme elevation of this great body of water, 7,714 3/5 feet, is difficult
to realize. Place Mount Washington, the pride of New England, with its
base at the sea level, at the bottom of the lake, and the clear waters
of the latter would roll 2,214 feet above its summit. With the single exception
of Lake Titticaeca, Peru, it is the highest great body of water on the
globe. No shells of any description are found on the lake shore, nor is
there any evidence of the waters ever having stood at a much higher level
than the present. Twenty-five feet will cover the whole range of the water-marks.
Its annual rise and fall is about two feet. Its waters abound with trout
to such an extent that the fish at this season are in poor condition, for
want of food. No other fish are seen; no minnows, and no small trout. There
are also no clams, crabs, nor turtles -- nothing but full-grown trout.
These could be caught in mule loads by wading out a few feet in the open
waters at any point with a grasshopper bait. Two men could catch them faster
than half a dozen could clean and get them ready for the frying pan. Caught
in the open lake, their flesh was yellow; but in bays, where the water
was strongly impregnated with chemicals, it was blood-red. Many of them
were full of long white worms, woven across the interior of the body, and
through to the skin on either side. These did not appear to materially
affect the condition of the fish, which were apparently as active as the
others. I had on the previous evening been nine days and nights without
sleep or rest, and was becoming very much reduced. My hand was enormously
swelled, and even ice-water ceased to relieve the pain. I could scarcely
walk at all, from excessive weakness. The most powerful opiates had ceased
to have any effect. A consultation was held, which resulted in having the
thumb split open. Mr. Langford performed the operation in a masterly manner,
dividing thumb bone and all. An explosion ensued, followed by immediate
relief. I slept through
the night, all day, and the next night, and felt
much better. To Mr. Langford, General Washburn, Mr. Stickney, and the others
of the party, I owe a lasting debt for their uniform kindness and attention
in the hour of need.
Fifteenth day -- September 5. -- We moved
at 9 a.m. south, along the eastern shore, passing at intervals the extinct
craters of several springs crumbling away from the action of the waves.
In two miles we came to a low promontory, whence several steam jets arose
with a loud roar- Go
to next page
Go
back to Yellowstone Historical Almanac
Go back to
Yellowstone History Guide
Go back to The Magic
of Yellowstone front page