9
YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION OF 1870
from the Yellowstone, skirting along the cañon
of the former stream. The ground for that distance rises very rapidly,
and is much broken by creek beds running parallel with the river. Following
the highest ridges we presently come to a point from whence could be overlooked
the Grand Cañon, cleaving the slopes and breaking through the lofty
mountain ranges directly in front. Its perpendicular sides, wherever visible,
of the yellow sulphuric tint above described, and its crest on either side
of the river, mantled with heavy timber, extending beyond in an unbroken
forest as far as the eye could reach. This, the upper cañon of the
Yellowstone, is about twenty miles in length, reaching to the foot of the
Great Falls, is impassable throughout its whole extent, and only accessible
to the water's edge at a few points and by dint of sever labor. Through
the mountain gap formed by the cañon, and on the interior slopes
some twenty miles distant, an object now appeared, which drew a simultaneous
expression of wonder from every one in the party. A column of steam, rising
from the dense woods to the height of several hundred feet, became distinctly
visible. We had all heard fabulous stories of this region, and were somewhat
skeptical of appearances. At first it was pronounced a fire in the woods,
but presently some one noticed that the vapor rose in regular puffs, as
if expelled with a great force. Then conviction was forced upon us. It
was, indeed, a great column of steam, puffing away on the lofty mountain
side, escaping with a roaring sound audible at a long distance, even through
the heavy forest. A hearty cheer rang out at this discovery, and pressed
onward with renewed enthusiasm. Following the ridge leading to the peak
nearest the cañon, and the highest of the range, we were soon at
its base; then making a detour to the right, crossing several ugly ravines
and through a gap in the ridge, we passed over the Elephant's Back and
entered the great basin of the Yellowstone Lake. Observations were
taken from the summit of the peak which we named Mount Washburn. Noon,
barometer 20.80; thermometer, 50; elevation, 9,966 feet.
The view from the summit is beyond all adequate
description. Looking northward from the base of the mountain the great
plateau stretches away to the front and left with its innumerable groves
and sparkling waters, a variegated landscape of surpassing beauty, bounded
on its extreme verge by the cañons of the Yellowstone. The pure
atmosphere of this lofty region causes every outline of tree, rock or lakelet
to be visible with wonderful distinctness, and objects twenty miles away
appear as if very near at hand. Still further to the left the snowy ranges
on the headwaters of Gardiner's river stretch away to the westward, joining
those on the head of the Gallatin, and forming, with the Elephant's Back,
a continuous chain, bending constantly to the south, the rim of the Yellowstone
Basin. On the verge of the horizon appear, like mole hills in the distance,
and far below, the white summits above the Gallatin Valley. These never
thaw during the summer months, though several thousand feet lower than
where we now stand upon the bare granite and no snow visible near, save
n the depths of shaded ravines. Beyond the plateau to the right front is
the deep valley of the East Fork bearing away eastward, and still beyond,
ragged volcanic peaks, heaped in inextricable confusion, as far as the
limit of vision extends. On the east, close beneath our feet, yawns the
immense gulf of the Grand Cañon, cutting away the bases of two mountains
in forcing a passage through the range. Its yellow walls divide the landscape
nearly in a straight line to the junction of Warm Spring Creek below. The
ragged edges of the chasm are from two hundred to five hundred yards apart,
its depth so profound that the river bed is no where visible. No sound
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