Following down the river bank through a deep cañon of volcanic rocks, in many places broken in huge fragments, we presently came to rapids, having a fall of perhaps 40 feet in a half mile. At this point the channel narrows to 150 feet, and is shut in by perpendicular rocks. We were obliged to scale the ridge above, and follow down the steam on its summit, through dense timber and steep ravines, with considerable difficulty. In three miles we reached a level bottom, on the river, at the junction of a large creek coming in from the northeast. Camped at the junction. Distance 18 miles.

Barometer, 23.50; thermometer, 43°; elevation, 6,594 feet.

Thirtieth day -- September 20. -- We now thought ourselves clear of the geysers, but in the morning were surprised to see a graceful column of steam ascending to the height of 300 feet on the opposite side of the creek and in the elbow of a mountain range. We did not visit this group, but forded the Madison twice just below camp, and followed down its right bank. The river is here shut in by a cañon of high lava mountains rising with a perpendicular front of from 1,000 to 2,000 feet. The bare rocks stand out in impassable walls seamed with fissures and scarred by storms of centuries. Huge fragments in many places overhang the narrow path. In others the summits of the wall are composed of trachyte, overlaid with masses of basaltic columns of immense height.

Often the grassy, narrow shelf on the margin of the stream is covered with débris, and we were frequently obliged to take to the river, which runs on a ledge of lava full of deep cavities and strewn with large boulders. After threading our way thus for twelve miles through the grandest vistas of volcanic mountain scenery, the ranges suddenly fell away to the right and left, and we entered up on a great plateau, heavily timbered, and sloping to the west. This was the upper valley of the Madison, and is within the limits of the Great basin. We passed rapidly down this uniform sloped for ten miles, all the way through timber, in many places deadened by fire, coming in on the river bank in the center of the valley, and thence followed down to an open district, in the middle of which rise two hills of considerable altitude. Mr. Langford and myself ascended to the summit of the highest of these and obtained a full view of the surrounding country. The valley is nearly circular, about twenty miles in diameter, with the Madison running from south to north through its center. The land slopes gradually to the river from east and west. Two large streams head in the east and west points, skirting the margin of the valley through rolling prairie lands, and joining the Madison near the north point. The land is open all around the edges of the valley, but its central Go to next page